端午节前一个月,Godot在嘀咕上问要不要一起去新疆,盘算了一下假期,无论如何时间都不可能够。就目前的状况,顶多能请个两天假,加上3天的端午节假期,一共就五天,于是我们商量去敦煌吧,她发了一篇蚂蜂窝上的攻略路书给我,一下被鸣沙山的沙漠和月牙泉景色打动了,于是迅速决定:端午节去敦煌!后面又商量着加了嘉峪关,因为Godot是一个传说中的藏传佛教爱好者,于是又加了西宁的塔尔寺。
在到端午节这个期间,先后有阿甘、筱嫻夫妇、秦文在小分队名单里进进出出,到出发前1周前,终于确定了名单:阿甘家里有事放弃了这个行程,发起者Godot同学因为准备前往拉卜楞寺念经,自己把自己踢出了小分队,从此变成了不靠谱星球人,剩下的成员有筱嫻中雨两口子、秦文、我,我们分别从北京、乌鲁木齐、深圳出发,最后在敦煌回合。
先飞到兰州,深圳没有直飞兰州的航班,中间经停长沙,但是长沙那天暴雨,结果飞机绕武汉呆了半小时,然后又回长沙,再到西宁,在飞机上足足呆了6个小时。
到了兰州马上就要赶火车了,时间紧急之间还是去吃了一碗正宗的兰州拉面。。

第一天的行程都是在敦煌,包括莫高窟、雅丹魔鬼城、鸣沙山、月牙泉,我们在去之前在新浪微博上联系到当地的导游,包了车,从兰州到敦煌以后,直接就往莫高窟出发。
莫高窟(Dunhuang Caves)俗称千佛洞,被誉为20世纪最有价值的文化发现、“东方卢浮宫”,坐落在河西走廊西端的敦煌,以精美的壁画和塑像闻名于世。它始建于十六国的前秦时期,历经十六国、北朝、隋、唐、五代、西夏、元等历代的兴建,形成巨大的规模,现有洞窟735个,壁画4.5万平方米、泥质彩塑2415尊,是世界上现存规模最大、内容最丰富的佛教艺术圣地。近代发现的藏经洞,内有5万多件古代文物,由此衍生专门研究藏经洞典籍和敦煌艺术的学科——敦煌学。
莫高窟里不准拍照片,甚至包括外墙都不是任何地方可以拍的,所以照片所得有限。有兴趣的可以干脆看百度百科的介绍
这里半人高的洞窟,是以前在莫高窟的工人和僧人住宿和打坐修行的地方,很难想象这么逼仄的空间如何容下一个人

这个貌似是高僧的舍利塔,中原地区叫浮屠?类似纪念碑吧。。

莫高窟外已经干涸的河道,你能想象这里若干年前也曾经滔滔河水么。

遇到一个写生的美院学生

莫高窟都是在石头山上挖凿的,政府在这里设置了围栏、门楼,方便保护和收门票

这里是莫高窟的代表景点,里面是一个半露天的大佛,貌似是全国第三大,因为佛像被风吹日晒损毁得厉害,后人就盖了这个九层塔把佛像保护起来。



基本能拍的照片就这么多了,洞窟里面的彩绘非常美,特别是盛唐时期留下的,后来的历朝历代都有留下不同的作品,只是都比不上大唐盛世的精致和美丽。这也可以说是“经济基础决定上层建筑”么。我们熟悉的飞天、反弹琵琶等等的形象都是从莫高窟的彩绘里获得的。
因为灯光和闪光灯都会对壁画造成破坏,所以一律禁止照相。
莫高窟外就是一个邮局,来这里给朋友和家人寄明信片,盖上这里特有的邮戳。


给我们的团队寄一张

莫高窟旁边就是一个陈列馆,里面放了很多石窟里的仿制品。


20世纪初,石窟里的一个藏经洞被一个叫王道士的流浪汉发现了,他把里面的文物用极低的价钱卖给了当时在中国的一些西方人,更多的西方人闻风而来,打着考古的名义把里面的几千件珍宝劫掠一空,目前的这些宝贝们基本都在西方国家的博物馆里。。其实我觉得反正人类大同,放哪儿都一样,只要不是没了或者被外星人抢走就行。。
说起来莫高窟的这些古迹能保存下来都是奇迹,一千多年来这里经历了无数次战火,近代又遭到劫掠,还有俄罗斯逃窜的士兵在洞里生活造饭,解放以后据说原子弹的试爆地点本来离这里很近,后来是周恩来干涉才往北挪了。。能看到就算是福气了。

Generally my comment to other readers about new sites is to wait and see but for this one I would jump to recommend now, and a look at liftinglair reinforced that early recommendation, the speed at which a site earns my recommendation is itself a quality signal and this one has earned mine quickly clearly.
A small thank you note from me to the team behind this work, the post earned it, and a stop at networknectar suggested more thanks would be in order over time, recognising the people who do good writing online is something I try to remember to do because the alternative is silence and silence rewards mediocrity unfortunately.
Decided not to comment because the post said what needed saying, and a stop at labelloom continued that complete feel, content that does not invite obvious additions or corrections from readers is content that has been carefully considered and this site appears to consistently produce pieces that satisfy rather than provoke unnecessary follow ups.
A piece that earned its conclusions through the body rather than asserting them at the end, and a look at parcelpilot maintained the same earned quality, conclusions that follow from what came before are more persuasive than declarations and this site has clearly internalised that principle in how it constructs arguments throughout pieces.
Came in tired from a long day and the writing held my attention anyway, and a stop at pakplates kept that going, content that can engage a fatigued reader is doing something right because most online reading happens in suboptimal conditions like that one and quality content adapts to it without complaint.
Now wondering how the writers calibrated the level of detail so well, and a stop at anchoratlas continued the same calibration, the right level of detail is one of the harder editorial calls in any piece and this site has clearly developed an instinct for it through what I assume is years of careful practice publicly.
A thoughtful piece that did not strain to be thoughtful, and a look at pakistanpulse continued that effortless quality, when thinking shows up in writing without the writer drawing attention to it you know you are reading something genuinely considered rather than something performing the appearance of consideration which is also common online.
Most posts I read end up forgotten within a day but this one is sticking, and a look at zinniazone extended that lingering effect, content that survives the immediate moment of reading rather than evaporating is content with genuine retention quality and this site has been producing memorable pieces at a rate notable across my reading.
This one is staying open in a tab for the rest of the day so I can come back and re read certain parts, and a look at orderwharf suggests I will be doing the same with a few more pages here too, this is going to be a deep dive over the coming hours.
Took a chance on the headline and was rewarded, and a stop at junocrate kept the rewards coming as I clicked through, the kind of place where every link leads somewhere worth the click is a small luxury on the modern web where so many sites are mostly empty calories disguised as content.
Looking at this from the perspective of someone tired of generic content the contrast is striking, and a look at balmbridge maintained that distinctive feel, sites with strong editorial identity stand out against the bland background of algorithmic content and this one has clearly developed an identity worth recognising through careful attention.
Worth saying this site reads better than most paid newsletters I have tried, and a stop at irisvendor confirmed that comparison, the bar for free content is often lower than for paid but this site clears the paid bar consistently and that says something about the editorial approach behind the work being published here regularly.
Now feeling slightly more committed to my own careful reading practices having read this, and a stop at wervina reinforced that commitment, content that models the kind of attention it deserves is content that calibrates the reader and this site has clearly raised my own bar for what to bring to good writing today.
Worth bookmarking and sharing with anyone interested in the topic, that is my honest take, and a stop at clovervendorhouse reinforces that, the kind of generous resource that makes the open web feel worth defending against the constant pressure to retreat into walled gardens and curated feeds today everywhere I look across all my devices.
Felt the post had been written without using a single buzzword, and a look at lemonvendor continued that clean vocabulary, content free of jargon and trendy phrases reads better and ages better and this site has clearly committed to a vocabulary that will not feel dated in three years which is impressive editorially.
Most of the time I bounce off similar pages within seconds, and a stop at safesaffron held me longer than I would have predicted, the ability to convert a likely bouncing visitor into an engaged reader is a quality signal and this site has demonstrated that conversion ability across multiple visits where I expected to bounce.
Worth saying that the prose reads naturally without straining for style, and a stop at forestvendorcorner maintained the same unforced quality, writing that achieves elegance without effort is the highest tier and this site has clearly worked out how to land that effortless quality consistently rather than only on the writers best days.
Definitely returning here, that is decided, and a look at dlinkden only made the case stronger, this is one of those rare websites that rewards regular visits rather than feeling stale after the first read which is something I cannot say about most of the places I bookmark today across all my topics.
Speaking from the perspective of a fairly demanding reader the writing here clears the bar consistently, and a look at grenvia continued clearing that bar, the calibration of demanding reader is something I apply to all sources and this site has been one of the few that handles the demanding reading well across pieces sampled.
The pacing of the post was just right, never rushed and never dragged out unnecessarily, and a look at wearwhimsy maintained the same rhythm, you can tell the writer has experience because the difficult skill of pacing is something only practiced writers manage to handle well in long form content over time and across formats.
Just sat back at the end of the post and felt grateful that someone took the time to write it, and a look at doggearshop extended that gratitude across more of the site, recognising effort behind quality work is part of what makes the open web a community rather than just a marketplace today.
Now planning to recommend this site in a context where my recommendations are taken seriously, and a stop at varnika confirmed I should make that recommendation soon, the small but real act of recommending content into spaces where my taste matters is something I take seriously and this site is worth the recommendation.
Honestly enjoyed not being sold anything for the entire duration of the post, and a look at tinytill kept that pleasant absence going across more pages, content that exists for its own sake rather than as a funnel to a paid product is increasingly rare and worth supporting where I can find it.
Reading this gave me something to think about for the rest of the afternoon, and after vionessa I had even more to mull over, the kind of post that lingers in the background of your day rather than evaporating immediately is genuinely valuable in an attention economy that punishes depth rather than rewarding it.
Started reading without much expectation and ended on a high note, and a look at buildabrigade continued that arc, content that builds rather than peaks early is a sign of a writer who knows how to structure a piece for sustained reader engagement rather than relying on a strong hook to do all the work.
High quality writing, no marketing speak and no buzzwords that mean nothing, and a stop at kiostra kept that going, simple direct content that actually communicates something is harder to find than it should be and this is one of the rare places that gets it right consistently across many different posts.
Closed the tab with a small sense of finality rather than the usual rushed exit, and a stop at aurorabend produced the same considered closing, when reading ends with deliberate satisfaction rather than impatient skip you know the time was well spent and this site is producing those satisfying endings consistently across what I read.
Felt energised after reading rather than drained, which is unusual for online content these days, and a look at crystalcoveartisanmarket continued that good feeling, content that leaves you better than it found you is rare and worth bookmarking when you stumble across it for the first time today or any other day really.
The lack of unnecessary jargon made the post accessible without sacrificing accuracy, and a look at oakridgevendorhall continued in the same accessible style, technical topics often hide behind specialised vocabulary but here the writer trusts the reader to keep up with plain language and that trust pays off nicely throughout the entire post.
A memorable post for me on a topic I had thought I was tired of, and a look at coralharborvault suggested the same site can refresh other tired topics, sites that can revive my interest in subjects I had written off as exhausted are doing rare work and this one is clearly doing that for me today.
A clean read with no irritations, and a look at seacoveartisanmarket continued that frictionless quality, the absence of small irritations is something I notice only when present elsewhere and this site is one of the rare places where everything just works and lets me focus on the substance rather than fighting the format.
Will be sharing this with a couple of people who care about the topic, and a stop at kettlebrookoutlet added more material worth passing along, the kind of site that is generous with quality content and does not make you jump through hoops to access it which is appreciated more than the team probably realises.
Appreciate the practical examples, they made the abstract points easier to grasp, and a stop at pinetrailartisanmart added more of the same, this site clearly understands that real examples beat empty theory every single time which is the mark of a writer who knows their audience well and respects their time.
Skipped the related products section because there was none, and a stop at mosscoveartisanmart also lacked any aggressive monetisation, content that is not constantly trying to convert me into a customer or subscriber is content that has confidence in its own value and that confidence shows up as a different reading experience.
Refreshing to find writing that does not try to manipulate the reader into clicking onto the next page through cliffhangers and forced engagement, and a stop at daisyaisle continued in the same respectful way, this is what reader first design actually looks like in practice rather than just in marketing copy that sounds nice.
Quietly the post solved something I had been turning over without quite knowing how to phrase the question, and a look at pinemeadowtradehouse extended that quiet solving, content that addresses unformulated needs is content with reader insight and this site has demonstrated that insight at a high rate across the pieces I have read recently.
Bookmark added without hesitation after finishing, and a look at oakharborcollective confirmed I should bookmark the homepage too rather than just this page, the rare site that earns category level trust rather than just single article approval is the kind I want to rely on across many different topics over time.
Stands out for actually being useful instead of just being long, and a look at creekharborvendorhall kept that going, length without value is the default mode of most blogs these days but this site has clearly chosen a different path which I respect a lot as a reader who values careful editing decisions like that.
Skimmed first and then went back to read carefully, and the careful read paid off in places I had missed, and a stop at velvetbrookvault got the same treatment, the rare site whose content rewards a second pass is content I want more of in my regular rotation rather than disposable single read articles.
Looking through other posts here the consistency is what makes the site valuable rather than any single piece, and a stop at zenwillowtrading extended that consistency observation, sites whose value lies in the ongoing pattern rather than in standout posts are sites I trust more deeply and this one has clearly built that kind of trust.
Stayed longer than planned because each section earned the next, and a look at calmcovevault kept that pulling effect going across more pages, the kind of subtle pull that good writing exerts on attention is something I find harder and harder to resist when I encounter it on the open web today.
Reading this slowly and letting each paragraph land before moving on, and a stop at maplemeadow earned the same patient approach, content that rewards slow reading rather than speed is content with real density and the writers here are clearly producing work that benefits from the careful eye rather than the rushed scan.
Most blog writing on this subject reaches for the same handful of arguments and this post avoided them, and a look at mooncovegalleria continued the original treatment, content that finds its own path through territory other writers have flattened is content with real authorial energy and this site has plenty of that distinctive energy.
Closed the tab feeling I had spent the time well, and a stop at copperstoneoutpost extended that feeling across more pages, the test of whether time on a site was well spent is one I apply silently after closing tabs and very few sites pass it but this one passed it cleanly today afternoon clearly.
A piece that did not lecture even when it had clear positions, and a look at marblestoneoutpost maintained the same teaching without preaching tone, finding the line between informing and lecturing is hard and most sites land on the wrong side of it but this one has clearly figured out how to inform without becoming preachy.
Took my time with this rather than rushing because the writing rewards attention, and after apricotstoneemporium I had even more to absorb, the kind of content that pays back the patient reader rather than punishing them with empty filler is something I look for and rarely find in regular searches lately.
Refreshing tone compared to the dry corporate posts on similar topics, and a stop at caramelcovevault carried that personality through nicely, you can tell when a real person is behind the writing versus a content team chasing metrics and this site definitely falls into the former category clearly across what I have seen.
Felt the writer respected me as a reader without making a show of doing so, and a look at solarorchardtrading continued that quiet respect, this is the kind of small but meaningful detail that separates the sites I bookmark from the ones I close after a single skim and never return to again no matter how interesting the headline.