端午节前一个月,Godot在嘀咕上问要不要一起去新疆,盘算了一下假期,无论如何时间都不可能够。就目前的状况,顶多能请个两天假,加上3天的端午节假期,一共就五天,于是我们商量去敦煌吧,她发了一篇蚂蜂窝上的攻略路书给我,一下被鸣沙山的沙漠和月牙泉景色打动了,于是迅速决定:端午节去敦煌!后面又商量着加了嘉峪关,因为Godot是一个传说中的藏传佛教爱好者,于是又加了西宁的塔尔寺。
在到端午节这个期间,先后有阿甘、筱嫻夫妇、秦文在小分队名单里进进出出,到出发前1周前,终于确定了名单:阿甘家里有事放弃了这个行程,发起者Godot同学因为准备前往拉卜楞寺念经,自己把自己踢出了小分队,从此变成了不靠谱星球人,剩下的成员有筱嫻中雨两口子、秦文、我,我们分别从北京、乌鲁木齐、深圳出发,最后在敦煌回合。
先飞到兰州,深圳没有直飞兰州的航班,中间经停长沙,但是长沙那天暴雨,结果飞机绕武汉呆了半小时,然后又回长沙,再到西宁,在飞机上足足呆了6个小时。
到了兰州马上就要赶火车了,时间紧急之间还是去吃了一碗正宗的兰州拉面。。

第一天的行程都是在敦煌,包括莫高窟、雅丹魔鬼城、鸣沙山、月牙泉,我们在去之前在新浪微博上联系到当地的导游,包了车,从兰州到敦煌以后,直接就往莫高窟出发。
莫高窟(Dunhuang Caves)俗称千佛洞,被誉为20世纪最有价值的文化发现、“东方卢浮宫”,坐落在河西走廊西端的敦煌,以精美的壁画和塑像闻名于世。它始建于十六国的前秦时期,历经十六国、北朝、隋、唐、五代、西夏、元等历代的兴建,形成巨大的规模,现有洞窟735个,壁画4.5万平方米、泥质彩塑2415尊,是世界上现存规模最大、内容最丰富的佛教艺术圣地。近代发现的藏经洞,内有5万多件古代文物,由此衍生专门研究藏经洞典籍和敦煌艺术的学科——敦煌学。
莫高窟里不准拍照片,甚至包括外墙都不是任何地方可以拍的,所以照片所得有限。有兴趣的可以干脆看百度百科的介绍
这里半人高的洞窟,是以前在莫高窟的工人和僧人住宿和打坐修行的地方,很难想象这么逼仄的空间如何容下一个人

这个貌似是高僧的舍利塔,中原地区叫浮屠?类似纪念碑吧。。

莫高窟外已经干涸的河道,你能想象这里若干年前也曾经滔滔河水么。

遇到一个写生的美院学生

莫高窟都是在石头山上挖凿的,政府在这里设置了围栏、门楼,方便保护和收门票

这里是莫高窟的代表景点,里面是一个半露天的大佛,貌似是全国第三大,因为佛像被风吹日晒损毁得厉害,后人就盖了这个九层塔把佛像保护起来。



基本能拍的照片就这么多了,洞窟里面的彩绘非常美,特别是盛唐时期留下的,后来的历朝历代都有留下不同的作品,只是都比不上大唐盛世的精致和美丽。这也可以说是“经济基础决定上层建筑”么。我们熟悉的飞天、反弹琵琶等等的形象都是从莫高窟的彩绘里获得的。
因为灯光和闪光灯都会对壁画造成破坏,所以一律禁止照相。
莫高窟外就是一个邮局,来这里给朋友和家人寄明信片,盖上这里特有的邮戳。


给我们的团队寄一张

莫高窟旁边就是一个陈列馆,里面放了很多石窟里的仿制品。


20世纪初,石窟里的一个藏经洞被一个叫王道士的流浪汉发现了,他把里面的文物用极低的价钱卖给了当时在中国的一些西方人,更多的西方人闻风而来,打着考古的名义把里面的几千件珍宝劫掠一空,目前的这些宝贝们基本都在西方国家的博物馆里。。其实我觉得反正人类大同,放哪儿都一样,只要不是没了或者被外星人抢走就行。。
说起来莫高窟的这些古迹能保存下来都是奇迹,一千多年来这里经历了无数次战火,近代又遭到劫掠,还有俄罗斯逃窜的士兵在洞里生活造饭,解放以后据说原子弹的试爆地点本来离这里很近,后来是周恩来干涉才往北挪了。。能看到就算是福气了。

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