端午节前一个月,Godot在嘀咕上问要不要一起去新疆,盘算了一下假期,无论如何时间都不可能够。就目前的状况,顶多能请个两天假,加上3天的端午节假期,一共就五天,于是我们商量去敦煌吧,她发了一篇蚂蜂窝上的攻略路书给我,一下被鸣沙山的沙漠和月牙泉景色打动了,于是迅速决定:端午节去敦煌!后面又商量着加了嘉峪关,因为Godot是一个传说中的藏传佛教爱好者,于是又加了西宁的塔尔寺。
在到端午节这个期间,先后有阿甘、筱嫻夫妇、秦文在小分队名单里进进出出,到出发前1周前,终于确定了名单:阿甘家里有事放弃了这个行程,发起者Godot同学因为准备前往拉卜楞寺念经,自己把自己踢出了小分队,从此变成了不靠谱星球人,剩下的成员有筱嫻中雨两口子、秦文、我,我们分别从北京、乌鲁木齐、深圳出发,最后在敦煌回合。
先飞到兰州,深圳没有直飞兰州的航班,中间经停长沙,但是长沙那天暴雨,结果飞机绕武汉呆了半小时,然后又回长沙,再到西宁,在飞机上足足呆了6个小时。
到了兰州马上就要赶火车了,时间紧急之间还是去吃了一碗正宗的兰州拉面。。

第一天的行程都是在敦煌,包括莫高窟、雅丹魔鬼城、鸣沙山、月牙泉,我们在去之前在新浪微博上联系到当地的导游,包了车,从兰州到敦煌以后,直接就往莫高窟出发。
莫高窟(Dunhuang Caves)俗称千佛洞,被誉为20世纪最有价值的文化发现、“东方卢浮宫”,坐落在河西走廊西端的敦煌,以精美的壁画和塑像闻名于世。它始建于十六国的前秦时期,历经十六国、北朝、隋、唐、五代、西夏、元等历代的兴建,形成巨大的规模,现有洞窟735个,壁画4.5万平方米、泥质彩塑2415尊,是世界上现存规模最大、内容最丰富的佛教艺术圣地。近代发现的藏经洞,内有5万多件古代文物,由此衍生专门研究藏经洞典籍和敦煌艺术的学科——敦煌学。
莫高窟里不准拍照片,甚至包括外墙都不是任何地方可以拍的,所以照片所得有限。有兴趣的可以干脆看百度百科的介绍
这里半人高的洞窟,是以前在莫高窟的工人和僧人住宿和打坐修行的地方,很难想象这么逼仄的空间如何容下一个人

这个貌似是高僧的舍利塔,中原地区叫浮屠?类似纪念碑吧。。

莫高窟外已经干涸的河道,你能想象这里若干年前也曾经滔滔河水么。

遇到一个写生的美院学生

莫高窟都是在石头山上挖凿的,政府在这里设置了围栏、门楼,方便保护和收门票

这里是莫高窟的代表景点,里面是一个半露天的大佛,貌似是全国第三大,因为佛像被风吹日晒损毁得厉害,后人就盖了这个九层塔把佛像保护起来。



基本能拍的照片就这么多了,洞窟里面的彩绘非常美,特别是盛唐时期留下的,后来的历朝历代都有留下不同的作品,只是都比不上大唐盛世的精致和美丽。这也可以说是“经济基础决定上层建筑”么。我们熟悉的飞天、反弹琵琶等等的形象都是从莫高窟的彩绘里获得的。
因为灯光和闪光灯都会对壁画造成破坏,所以一律禁止照相。
莫高窟外就是一个邮局,来这里给朋友和家人寄明信片,盖上这里特有的邮戳。


给我们的团队寄一张

莫高窟旁边就是一个陈列馆,里面放了很多石窟里的仿制品。


20世纪初,石窟里的一个藏经洞被一个叫王道士的流浪汉发现了,他把里面的文物用极低的价钱卖给了当时在中国的一些西方人,更多的西方人闻风而来,打着考古的名义把里面的几千件珍宝劫掠一空,目前的这些宝贝们基本都在西方国家的博物馆里。。其实我觉得反正人类大同,放哪儿都一样,只要不是没了或者被外星人抢走就行。。
说起来莫高窟的这些古迹能保存下来都是奇迹,一千多年来这里经历了无数次战火,近代又遭到劫掠,还有俄罗斯逃窜的士兵在洞里生活造饭,解放以后据说原子弹的试爆地点本来离这里很近,后来是周恩来干涉才往北挪了。。能看到就算是福气了。

Definitely a recommend from me, anyone curious about the topic should check this out, and a look at covecanal adds even more reason for that, the depth and quality combine to make this site one I will be pointing people toward whenever similar conversations come up over the months ahead at work or socially.
Most of my reading time goes to a small number of trusted sources and this one is now joining that group, and a stop at craterbase reinforced the group membership, the few sites that earn a place in my regular rotation are sites I expect ongoing returns from and this one has earned that elevated position consistently.
Reading this with a notebook open turned out to be the right move, and a stop at craterbook added more material to the notes, content that justifies active note taking from a passive reader is content with real informational density and this site is producing notes worthy material at a high rate consistently.
Came back to this twice now in the same week which is unusual for me, and a look at crazeborn suggested I will keep coming back, the kind of post that earns repeated visits rather than one and done reading is the gold standard for content quality and this site clearly hit that standard.
Skipped the comments to avoid spoilers and came back later to find them genuinely worth reading, and a stop at crazechip extended that surprised respect, when the discussion below a post matches the quality of the post itself you have found something special and this site appears to attract that kind of audience.
Now realising this site has been quietly doing good work for longer than I knew, and a look at crazecocoa suggested an archive worth exploring, sites with deep archives of consistent quality represent a different kind of resource than sites with viral hits and this one looks like the durable kind based on what I see.
Reading this slowly to give it the attention it deserved, and a stop at crestbulb earned the same slow read, choosing to read slowly is a small act of respect for content quality and very few sites earn that respect from me but this one did so without any explicit ask which is the cleanest way.
Worth flagging that the post handled an angle of the topic I had not seen elsewhere, and a look at crocboard extended that fresh treatment, content that finds underexplored corners of well covered subjects is genuinely valuable and this site has demonstrated that exploratory editorial approach across multiple pieces in my reading sessions today.
Bookmark earned and shared the link with one specific person who would care, and a look at croccocoa got the same targeted share, sharing carefully rather than broadcasting is a discipline I try to maintain and this site is generating shares from me at a sustainable rate rather than the spam rate of viral content.
Thanks for the readable length, I finished it without checking how much was left, and a stop at crustbeige kept me reading the same way, when I stop noticing the length of a piece because the content is engaging enough to sustain attention without willpower the writer has done their job well today.
Did not expect much when I clicked through but ended up reading the whole thing carefully, and a stop at crustborn kept that engagement going, sometimes the unassuming sites turn out to deliver more than the flashy ones which is something I have learned to look out for over time online lately and across topics.
Started reading expecting to disagree and ended mostly nodding along, and a look at corestead continued the pattern, content that wins agreement through evidence and reasoning rather than rhetorical force is the kind that actually shifts minds and this site clearly knows how to do that across what I have read so far.
Got something practical out of this that I can apply later this week, and a stop at capitalnorth added more details to think about, this is exactly the kind of content I bookmark for future reference rather than the throwaway listicles that dominate most search results these days for almost any common topic.
Closed the laptop and walked away thinking about the post for a good twenty minutes, and a stop at firstanchor produced similar lingering thoughts, content that survives the closing of the browser tab is content that has actually entered the mind rather than just decorating the screen for the duration of the reading.
Polished and informative without feeling overproduced, that is the sweet spot, and a look at puretrustbond hit it again, you can tell when a site has been built with care versus thrown together for the sake of having something to put online and this is clearly the former approach taken by the team.
Liked the balance between depth and brevity, never too shallow and never too long, and a stop at truepathbond kept the same balance going across the rest of the site, this is one of the harder skills in writing and the team here clearly has it figured out very well indeed across every page.
Felt the writer did the homework before publishing, the references hold up, and a look at ikbarmeryansus continued that documented care, content with traceable claims rather than vague assertions is the kind I trust and the lack of bald assertion in this post is one of its quietly impressive qualities for me.
Excellent post, balanced and well organised without showing off, and a stop at brightridgeoutlet continued in that same vein, this site has clearly figured out the formula for content that works for readers rather than for search engine ranking signals which is harder than it sounds today and worth real recognition from anyone.
Reading this gave me the rare experience of fully agreeing with all the conclusions, and a stop at velourvalley continued that agreement pattern, content that aligns with my existing views without seeming designed to do so is just content that happens to be reasonable and this site reads as reasonable rather than ideological mostly.
Took a screenshot of one section to come back to later, and a stop at velvetpinegoods prompted another saved tab, the urge to capture and revisit specific pieces of content is something I rarely feel but when I do it tells me the work is worth more than the average passing read for sure.
Honestly informative, the writer covers the ground without showing off, and a look at quiettidegoods reflected the same humility, content that respects the reader rather than trying to dazzle them is something I always appreciate and rarely come across in this corner of the internet today across the topics I usually read.
Sets a higher bar than most of what shows up in search results for this topic, and a look at fogharborgoods did not lower that bar at all, in fact it confirmed the impression, this is the kind of consistency that earns a place in regular rotation for serious readers instead of casual scrollers passing through.
A piece that built up gradually rather than front loading its main points, and a look at wildmapleemporium maintained the same gradual structure, content that trusts the reader to reach conclusions through accumulating reasoning is more persuasive than content that announces conclusions and then defends them and this site uses the persuasive approach.
Really like that the writer trusts the reader to follow simple logic without restating every previous point, and a stop at seabreezeatelier kept that respect going, treating an audience as capable adults rather than as people who need constant hand holding makes a noticeable difference in the reading experience for me.
A quiet piece that did not try to compete on volume, and a look at pineechoemporium maintained that selective approach, sites that publish less but better are increasingly rare in an environment that rewards volume and this one has clearly chosen quality cadence over quantity which is a brave editorial decision in current conditions.
A relief to read something where I did not have to fact check every claim mentally, and a look at sablefernshop continued that reliable feeling, sites where I can lower my guard and trust the content are rare and this one is earning that trust paragraph by paragraph through consistent careful work behind the scenes.
The overall feel of the post was professional without being stuffy, and a look at wildthistlemarket kept that approachable expertise going, finding the right register for technical content is hard but this site has clearly figured out how to sound knowledgeable without slipping into that distant lecturing tone that loses readers in droves every time.
Now placing this in the small category of sites whose updates I would actually want to know about, and a stop at sunweaveboutique confirmed that placement, the difference between sites I want to follow and sites I just consume from is real and this one has crossed into the active follow category from the casual consumption side.
Now wishing more sites covered topics with this level of care, and a look at morningquartz extended that wish across more subjects, the rarity of careful coverage on most topics is a problem and this site is one of the small antidotes to that broader pattern of casual or surface treatment of complex subjects.
Definitely a recommend from me, anyone curious about the topic should check this out, and a look at velixo adds even more reason for that, the depth and quality combine to make this site one I will be pointing people toward whenever similar conversations come up over the months ahead at work or socially.
Felt energised after reading rather than drained, which is unusual for online content these days, and a look at zulvix continued that good feeling, content that leaves you better than it found you is rare and worth bookmarking when you stumble across it for the first time today or any other day really.
Reading this between two meetings turned out to be the highlight of the morning, and a stop at pexra continued that highlight quality, content that outshines the structured parts of a working day is doing something well beyond ordinary and this site has produced multiple such highlights for me already this week alone.
Good quality through and through, no rough edges and no signs of being rushed, and a quick look at clickforpracticalsolutions kept the same polish going, the kind of site that respects its own brand by maintaining consistency across pages which is something I always appreciate as a reader looking for trustworthy information online today.
Felt the post had been quietly polished rather than aggressively styled, and a look at reliableonlinecommerce confirmed the same understated polish, sites whose quality reveals itself slowly rather than announcing itself loudly are the kind I trust more deeply because the trust is not based on first impressions of marketing but actual substance.
If you asked me to point to a recent positive sign for the open web this site would be near the top, and a stop at securebusinessrelationships reinforced that designation, the few sites that serve as evidence the web can still produce quality independent content are precious and this one has clearly become one for me.
Honestly this kind of writing is why I still bother to read independent sites, and a look at olvix extended that broader reflection, the few sites that justify continued attention to non algorithmic content are sites like this one and finding them periodically is enough to keep my reading habits oriented toward independent rather than aggregated content.
Now appreciating that I did not feel exhausted after reading, and a stop at qunix extended that energising quality, content that leaves me with more attention than it consumed is rare and the gap between draining and energising content is real over the course of a typical day spent reading widely online.
A piece that reads like it was written for me without claiming to be written for me, and a look at explorefuturedirections produced the same fit, when the writer audience match clicks naturally without being engineered through demographic targeting you know the writing is solid and this site has that natural fit consistently for me.
Bookmark earned and folder updated to track this site separately, and a look at enterprisevaluealliances confirmed the folder upgrade was the right call, organising my reading list so that good sites do not get lost in a sea of casual bookmarks is something I do more carefully now and this site warranted its own spot.
Really appreciate that the writer did not assume I would read every other related post first, and a look at ulvor kept that self contained feel going where each piece can stand alone, accessibility for new readers is a sign of generous editorial thinking and this site has clearly invested in that approach.
Even from a single post the editorial care is clear, and a stop at tekvo extended that care across more pages, the kind of attention to quality that shows up in every paragraph is what separates serious sites from the rest and this one has clearly invested in that paragraph level attention across what I have read.
Now setting this aside as a model of how to write thoughtfully on the topic, and a stop at olvra extended that model status, content that becomes a reference for how a kind of writing should be done is content with influence beyond its own readership and this site is reaching that level for me clearly today.
Now thinking about how to apply some of this to a project I have been planning, and a look at globalonlinebuyinghub added more material for the planning, content that connects to my actual creative work rather than just being interesting in the abstract is the kind that earns priority placement in my reading rotation consistently going forward.
Worth a quiet moment of recognition for the consistency I have noticed across multiple posts, and a stop at xelio continued that consistent quality, sites that maintain quality across many pieces rather than peaking on one viral post are sites with real editorial discipline and this one has clearly developed that discipline carefully.
Comfortable in tone and substantive in content, that is a hard combination to land, and a look at kavix kept that pairing alive across more material, this is what good editorial direction looks like in practice and the team here clearly has someone keeping a steady hand on the wheel across what they decide to publish.
Reading this in three sittings because the day was fragmented, and the piece survived the fragmentation, and a stop at ieeb held up under similar reading conditions, content engineered for continuous attention is fragile in modern conditions and this site reads as durable across the realistic ways people consume content today.
Reading this prompted me to dig out an old reference book related to the topic, and a stop at zorivoholdings extended that connection to other sources, content that connects me back to my own existing knowledge rather than asking me to forget it is content with continuity and this site has that continuous quality.
Honestly slowed down to read this carefully which is not my default, and a look at smartconsumerbuyingzone kept me in that careful reading mode, the kind of writing that demands attention by being worth attention is rare in a media environment full of content engineered to be skimmed not read with any real focus today.
Now planning a longer reading session for the archives, and a stop at futureorientedretailshop confirmed the archives are worth that longer commitment, sites with archives I want to read deliberately rather than just sample are rare and this one has clearly earned that level of interest based on the consistency of what I have already read.
Reading this confirmed that my time researching the topic in other places had not been wasted, and a stop at reliablecorporatealliances extended the confirmation, when independent sources agree that is a useful signal and this site is one of the more reliable sources I have found for cross checking what I read elsewhere on similar subjects.