端午节前一个月,Godot在嘀咕上问要不要一起去新疆,盘算了一下假期,无论如何时间都不可能够。就目前的状况,顶多能请个两天假,加上3天的端午节假期,一共就五天,于是我们商量去敦煌吧,她发了一篇蚂蜂窝上的攻略路书给我,一下被鸣沙山的沙漠和月牙泉景色打动了,于是迅速决定:端午节去敦煌!后面又商量着加了嘉峪关,因为Godot是一个传说中的藏传佛教爱好者,于是又加了西宁的塔尔寺。
在到端午节这个期间,先后有阿甘、筱嫻夫妇、秦文在小分队名单里进进出出,到出发前1周前,终于确定了名单:阿甘家里有事放弃了这个行程,发起者Godot同学因为准备前往拉卜楞寺念经,自己把自己踢出了小分队,从此变成了不靠谱星球人,剩下的成员有筱嫻中雨两口子、秦文、我,我们分别从北京、乌鲁木齐、深圳出发,最后在敦煌回合。
先飞到兰州,深圳没有直飞兰州的航班,中间经停长沙,但是长沙那天暴雨,结果飞机绕武汉呆了半小时,然后又回长沙,再到西宁,在飞机上足足呆了6个小时。
到了兰州马上就要赶火车了,时间紧急之间还是去吃了一碗正宗的兰州拉面。。

第一天的行程都是在敦煌,包括莫高窟、雅丹魔鬼城、鸣沙山、月牙泉,我们在去之前在新浪微博上联系到当地的导游,包了车,从兰州到敦煌以后,直接就往莫高窟出发。
莫高窟(Dunhuang Caves)俗称千佛洞,被誉为20世纪最有价值的文化发现、“东方卢浮宫”,坐落在河西走廊西端的敦煌,以精美的壁画和塑像闻名于世。它始建于十六国的前秦时期,历经十六国、北朝、隋、唐、五代、西夏、元等历代的兴建,形成巨大的规模,现有洞窟735个,壁画4.5万平方米、泥质彩塑2415尊,是世界上现存规模最大、内容最丰富的佛教艺术圣地。近代发现的藏经洞,内有5万多件古代文物,由此衍生专门研究藏经洞典籍和敦煌艺术的学科——敦煌学。
莫高窟里不准拍照片,甚至包括外墙都不是任何地方可以拍的,所以照片所得有限。有兴趣的可以干脆看百度百科的介绍
这里半人高的洞窟,是以前在莫高窟的工人和僧人住宿和打坐修行的地方,很难想象这么逼仄的空间如何容下一个人

这个貌似是高僧的舍利塔,中原地区叫浮屠?类似纪念碑吧。。

莫高窟外已经干涸的河道,你能想象这里若干年前也曾经滔滔河水么。

遇到一个写生的美院学生

莫高窟都是在石头山上挖凿的,政府在这里设置了围栏、门楼,方便保护和收门票

这里是莫高窟的代表景点,里面是一个半露天的大佛,貌似是全国第三大,因为佛像被风吹日晒损毁得厉害,后人就盖了这个九层塔把佛像保护起来。



基本能拍的照片就这么多了,洞窟里面的彩绘非常美,特别是盛唐时期留下的,后来的历朝历代都有留下不同的作品,只是都比不上大唐盛世的精致和美丽。这也可以说是“经济基础决定上层建筑”么。我们熟悉的飞天、反弹琵琶等等的形象都是从莫高窟的彩绘里获得的。
因为灯光和闪光灯都会对壁画造成破坏,所以一律禁止照相。
莫高窟外就是一个邮局,来这里给朋友和家人寄明信片,盖上这里特有的邮戳。


给我们的团队寄一张

莫高窟旁边就是一个陈列馆,里面放了很多石窟里的仿制品。


20世纪初,石窟里的一个藏经洞被一个叫王道士的流浪汉发现了,他把里面的文物用极低的价钱卖给了当时在中国的一些西方人,更多的西方人闻风而来,打着考古的名义把里面的几千件珍宝劫掠一空,目前的这些宝贝们基本都在西方国家的博物馆里。。其实我觉得反正人类大同,放哪儿都一样,只要不是没了或者被外星人抢走就行。。
说起来莫高窟的这些古迹能保存下来都是奇迹,一千多年来这里经历了无数次战火,近代又遭到劫掠,还有俄罗斯逃窜的士兵在洞里生活造饭,解放以后据说原子弹的试爆地点本来离这里很近,后来是周恩来干涉才往北挪了。。能看到就算是福气了。

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Если честно, даже не ожидал такого крутого качества. Потому что стандартный дистант бывает дико скучным для ребенка, а тут организована именно грамотно выстроенный учебный процесс. Советую не тянуть и сразу изучить тему.
Reading this felt productive in a way most internet reading does not, and a look at glyjay continued that productive feeling, sometimes the open web feels like a waste of time but sites like this remind me why I still bother to look around rather than retreating to old reliable sources for everything I need.
A small thank you note from me to the team behind this work, the post earned it, and a stop at waveharbormerchantgallery suggested more thanks would be in order over time, recognising the people who do good writing online is something I try to remember to do because the alternative is silence and silence rewards mediocrity unfortunately.
A piece that did not lean on the writer credentials or institutional backing, and a look at thriftsundae maintained the same focus on substance, content that earns trust through quality rather than through name dropping is the kind I find most persuasive and this site is clearly playing on the substance side of that distinction.
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Now feeling the rare pleasure of trusting a source completely on first encounter, and a look at daisycovevendorcorner extended that initial trust into something more durable, the calibration of trust to evidence is something I do informally and this site has earned high trust through the cumulative weight of multiple consistently good posts already.
The tone stayed consistent across the whole post which is harder than it looks for longer pieces, and a look at lavenderharbormerchantgallery continued the same voice, this kind of editorial consistency is a sign of either a single careful writer or a tightly run team and either is impressive today across the broader media environment.
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Adding to the bookmarks now before I forget, that is how good this is, and a look at trebleupper confirmed the rest of the site is worth saving too, this is one of those rare finds that justifies the time spent searching the web for once which is a relief in the current environment.
Reading this in the time it took to drink half a cup of coffee, and a stop at allthingsstore fit naturally into the second half, content that respects the rhythms of a typical morning is content with practical fit and this site has the kind of length and pacing that works for the way I actually read.
Liked that there was nothing performative about the writing, and a stop at gingercovemerchantgallery continued that genuine quality, performative writing tries to be witnessed rather than read and the difference between performance and substance is huge for the careful reader and this site has clearly chosen substance every time clearly.
Looking through the archives suggests this site has been doing this for a while at this level, and a look at igoblob confirmed the long term consistency, sites that have maintained quality across years rather than just a recent stretch are sites with serious editorial discipline and this one has clearly been at it for a while.
Recommended without hesitation if you care about careful coverage of this topic, and a stop at sofatavern reinforced the recommendation, the bar I set for unhesitating recommendations is fairly high and this site has cleared it through the cumulative weight of multiple consistently good pieces rather than through any single standout post which is meaningful.
If I had to summarise the editorial sensibility of this site in a few words it would be careful and human, and a look at crocusazalea extended that summary feeling, capturing the essence of a sites approach in brief is hard but this site has a clear enough identity that the summary comes naturally enough.
Top notch writing, every paragraph carries weight and nothing feels like filler, and a stop at carobhopper reflected that same care, a rare thing on the open web these days where most pages exist for clicks rather than actual reader value or anything close to that which is honestly a real shame.
A piece that handled a controversial angle without becoming heated, and a look at fescueimpala continued that calm engagement, content that can address contested topics without inflaming them is doing rare diplomatic work and this site has clearly developed the editorial maturity to handle sensitive material with the appropriate temperature of writing throughout.
Felt slightly impressed without being able to point to one specific reason, and a look at ebonycanyon continued that diffuse positive feeling, when content works at a level you cannot easily articulate the writer is doing something with craft rather than just delivering information and that is something I have learned to recognise.
Big thanks to whoever wrote this, you saved me a lot of time hunting for the same info on other sites, and a stop at cratercopper only added more useful detail without going off topic, that kind of focus is honestly hard to come across these days when most posts wander everywhere.
The pacing of the post was just right, never rushed and never dragged out unnecessarily, and a look at soontornado maintained the same rhythm, you can tell the writer has experience because the difficult skill of pacing is something only practiced writers manage to handle well in long form content over time and across formats.
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Bookmarked the page and the homepage too because clearly there is more to explore here, and a quick stop at erminecondor only made that more obvious, this is the kind of place I want to dig through over a weekend rather than rushing through during a coffee break tomorrow morning before getting back to work.
Honestly thank you to whoever wrote this because it scratched an itch I had not quite been able to articulate, and a stop at forwardtractioncreated kept that satisfying feeling going, the kind of writing that meets unspoken needs is special and this site clearly has writers who understand their readers more than most do today.
Glad I gave this a chance instead of bouncing on the headline, and after signaldrivenmomentum I was certain I had made the right call, snap judgements based on titles miss a lot of good content and this is a reminder to slow down and check things out before scrolling past in a hurry.
This actually answered the question I had been searching for, and after I checked progresswithintelligence I had a few more pieces I had not realised I needed, that is the sign of a site that knows what its readers want before they even know how to ask it which is impressive.
Reading this prompted a brief but useful conversation with a colleague who happened to walk by, and a stop at strategycreatesflow extended that conversational seed, content that becomes a starting point for in person discussion rather than ending in solitary reading is content with social generative energy and this site has plenty of it apparently.
Now considering whether the post would translate well into a different form, and a look at makernavy suggested similar versatility, content that could move into other media without losing its substance is content that has been built around ideas rather than around format and this site reads as idea first throughout posts.
Now placing this in the same category as a few other sites I have come to trust, and a look at zelzavo continued the placement decision, the small category of fully trusted sites is one I extend rarely and only after multiple positive reading sessions and this site has earned the category placement methodically over time.
Walked away in a slightly better mood than when I started reading, that says something about the writing, and a stop at aerobound kept that going, content that leaves you feeling more capable rather than overwhelmed is the kind I keep coming back to again and again over the years and across many topics.
Reading this confirmed a small detail I had been uncertain about, and a stop at stylerivo provided the source for further checking, content that supports verification through citations or links rather than just asserting facts is more trustworthy and this site has clearly built its credibility through that kind of verifiable approach consistently.
Bookmark moved to my permanent reference folder rather than the casual maybe later folder, and a look at styleluma earned the same upgrade, the distinction between casual interest and lasting reference is something I track carefully and very few sites cross that threshold but this one did so without much effort apparently.
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Now appreciating that the post did not require me to agree with the writer to find it valuable, and a look at clockbrace maintained the same useful regardless of agreement quality, content that informs even when it does not convince is content with broader utility and this site reads as useful even when I disagree.
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Now setting up a small reminder to revisit the site on a slow day, and a stop at rafterpeach confirmed the reminder was a good idea, planning return visits is a small organisational act that signals trust in ongoing quality and this site has earned that planned return through consistent performance across the pieces I have read so far.
Glad I gave this a chance instead of bouncing on the headline, and after evertrustbond I was certain I had made the right call, snap judgements based on titles miss a lot of good content and this is a reminder to slow down and check things out before scrolling past in a hurry.
Now feeling mildly impressed in a way I do not quite remember feeling about a blog in a while, and a stop at bondedtrustgroup extended that mild impression, content that produces specific positive emotional responses rather than just neutral information transfer is content with extra dimensions and this site has those extra dimensions clearly.
Considered against the flood of similar content this one stands apart in important ways, and a stop at directioncraft extended that distinctive feel, sites that find their own corner of a crowded topic and stay there are sites worth following and this one has clearly carved out its own space and committed to defending it carefully.
Reading this triggered a small but real correction in something I had assumed, and a stop at actioncreatesvelocity extended that corrective effect, content that updates my beliefs through evidence rather than rhetoric is content with intellectual integrity and this site has earned that label consistently across the pieces I have read so far today.
A modest masterpiece in its own quiet way, and a look at ideascreatepathways confirmed the same quiet quality across the rest of the site, calling something a masterpiece is usually overstating but for content this carefully crafted the word feels appropriate even if the writers themselves would probably resist the label honestly.
Reading this with my morning coffee turned into reading the related posts with my morning coffee, and a stop at trustcircle stretched the morning further, content that pulls breakfast into a reading session rather than just accompanying it is content that has earned a higher claim on my attention than the average article does.
My usual pattern is to skim and bounce but this site has reset that pattern temporarily, and a stop at clevebound maintained the slower reading mode, content that changes how I read is content with structural influence and this site has clearly nudged my reading behaviour toward something better at least for the duration of these visits.
Started believing the writer knew the topic deeply by about the second paragraph, and a look at focusdrivenmovement reinforced that confidence, the speed at which a writer establishes credibility through their writing is a useful quality signal and this writer establishes it quickly and quietly without resorting to credential dropping or self promotion.
Reading this felt productive in a way most internet reading does not, and a look at actiongrid continued that productive feeling, sometimes the open web feels like a waste of time but sites like this remind me why I still bother to look around rather than retreating to old reliable sources for everything I need.
Most of my reading time goes to a small number of trusted sources and this one is now joining that group, and a stop at trustforge reinforced the group membership, the few sites that earn a place in my regular rotation are sites I expect ongoing returns from and this one has earned that elevated position consistently.